Wednesday, November 30, 2016



DOES YOUR WATCH HAVE BALLS?

The  Van Cleef & Arpels 'Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication' by watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, is a hypnotic astronomical timepiece bearing a miniature solar system that you can wear on your wrist. Ok, maybe the title of this post is a tad crass but the fact is the watches below have the balls to use spheres of [...]

the coolest wood watches EVER MADE

There is no denying mid-century design was particularly special for art, cars & furniture but also true for a variety of watch designs. It was a period of experimentation with minimalism, asymmetry and new materials which opened the door for the use of wood in timepieces. Introduced in the late fifties and [...]


PUTTING SOME STEAM BACK INTO STEAMPUNK

This week, we're revisiting an old friend, Japanese Steampunk watchmaker, Sueyoshi Haruo (also referred to as Haruo Suekichi), featured nearly a decade ago on The Watchismo Times blog. Having created thousands of custom built Steampunk watches, all nearly one of a kind and with completely hilarious mechanical functions like flapping leather dragon wings to celebratory noisemakers and [...]
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WHAT'S THE COOLEST WATCH NEVER MADE?

Far ahead of its time, the 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra concept watch was doomed.  Destined to torment space-age vintage watch collectors like myself, this watch exists only as a one-off prototype designed by renowned avant garde watchmaker Louis Cottier eight years before his death in 1966.  Unique for its linear time display and [...]
Prototype Patek Philippe Cobra Movement

ANDREW GRIMA'S UNUSUAL OMEGA & LED WATCHES 1969-76

Andrew Grima was a famous British mid-century modern jewelry designer, commissioned to create unusual one-of-a-kind watches for Omega and Pulsar in the 60's & early 70's. He was commissioned by Omega to create a highly aesthetic avant-garde collection called 'About Time'.  Grima was given a free hand and chose to stick to one principle: he would [...]

ARE WATCHES ART?

If you ask us, we wholeheartedly believe there has been a new genre of art forming over the past twenty years within the very exclusive world of independent horology.  That said, it's more about motion and machines as the medium but nevertheless, there are some important collaborations that have occurred with watch brands and [...]


Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Maximilian Büsser & Friends - The Smelling Salts of the Watch World...Wake Up and Smell The Space Pirate!

We all know there are cool watches, classic watches and collectible watches -- but then you get to the world of Horological Machines -- in a class of their own.  If that doesn't make sense to you, MB&F watches are quite honestly the Umami, that savory taste you can't quite put your finger on but you know you gotta have it. Without naming names, you very well know what watches are sweet, sour, bitter and most definitely salty!  But what you don't know, that UMAMI is the taste that doesn't get old, it only gets better with each bite!




Horological Machine No.6 - now in limited "SV" editions, in sapphire crystal combined with streamlined red gold or platinum. The sapphire crystal alone requires 350 hours of careful machining and polishing, just for a single case - the equivalent of 2 months' worth of working days...

Learn more about this performance art piece . . . mbandf.com/machines/horological-machines/hm6

Friday, April 20, 2012

VENTURA SPARC MGS - World's First True Mechanical Automatic Digital Watch at Watchismo



After years of research and development, the world's first mechanical automatic digital watch is a reality!

Ventura SPARC MGS

No batteries included, no batteries required

Ventura invented the Automatic Digital Watch in 2000. The movements of the wrist activate a rotary mass which relays the momentum to a micro-generator; the electric energy gained in the process continuously feeds an optoelectronic time-module. The Micro-Generator-System of the new SPARC MGS was developed to achieve maximum performance. Placing the MGS side-by-side next to the time-device enabled a larger and heavier oscillating mass. This array also permits the viewing of the mechanism from the top, giving the SPARC MGS its characteristic appearance. The miniature power-station sustains a state-of-the-art micro-processor and a 250-segments 12-digit liquid-crystal display. The latest operating system EasySkroll v.2.0 allows later upgrades, another first in wristwatches. The multiple functions of the SPARC MGS are intuitively operated by a single scroller.

Click here to view all Ventura Sparc MGS Mechanical Automatic Digital Watches at Watchismo

Listen to inventor/designer/creator/founder Pierre Nobs explain the SPARC MGS history and new collection, just click the YouTube image above.


Listen to inventor/designer/creator/founder Pierre Nobs explain the SPARC MGS history and new collection, just click the YouTube image above.

Watch is supplied in "V-Winder" automatic winding wood box


Specifications:

Pat. pending.
dimensions: 60.00 mm x w 38.00 mm
Powered by MGS®-11 (Micro Generator
System), no battery.
Heavy duty Tungsten oscillating mass
Digital Model
Mvt. VEN_10 with EasySkroll®
operating system v2.0.
Energy management with sleep mode
and movement detector.
LED back light.
T1/date, T2/date, alarm for T1+T2
100 Year perpetual calendar,
chronograph, count down,
user-selectable 12 or 24h time
3 date formats,
Durinox® (tempered steel) black case
2 sapphire crystals
water resistant 3 bar (30m/100ft)

1. MGS®-11 - The owner’s wrist movements cause an oscillating mass to turn approximately 4’000 times per day on average.
2. Gear Train - The oscillating force is transferred to a precision gear with an attached Barillet
3. Barillet - The Gear Train tensions the spring of a Barillet about 17’000 times per day; each time the spring is fully tensioned, it releases its force to a micro-generator
4. Micro-Generator - The Micro-Generator transforms mechanical momentum into electric energy and sends a spark (SPARC®) to an accumulator
5. Accumulator - The accumulator stores the electric energy and powers the Cal. VEN_10 movement
6. Cal. VEN_10 - Ventura’s exclusive caliber with its EasySkroll® operating and scrolling system is entirely operated by the wrist-movements of its owner


Automatic Digital Wristwatch, case and bracelet, two sapphire crystals, water resistant 3 bar, with exclusive deluxe wooden gift casket in piano-lacquer finish. with v-winder included 

2nd gen Micro-Generating-System (MGS), EasySkroll® v.2.0 OS, VEN_10 digital module, LC display backlight by LED
Time1 + date1, time2 + date2, alarm, chronograph, countdown,
100 years perpetual calendar with day (5 languages), date, month, year, 12/24h format, 3 date-formats
MGS® power management, manual power off, automatic sleep mode (LC display "off", functions "on"), motion-sensor to monitor watch movements, automatic backlight control to prevent over-use
Power reserve: ~ 45 days , > 5 years (manual switch-off mode)
H (6 ~ 12h) 56.30 mm x W (9 ~ 3h) 38.00 mm x T 8.90 / 12.20 mm
Weight: ca. 200 gr.

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Friday, April 13, 2012

IT'S ABOUT TIME - WATCHES ARE BACK! Watchismo featured in San Jose Mercury News, Contra Costa Times and Oakland Tribune


Watchismo had the privilege of being featured in the San Jose Mercury News, Contra Costa Times and Oakland Tribune this weekend as part of the Sunday Styles section called "It's About Time - Watches Are Back!" -written by Jessica Yadegaran.

See the entire article and photo slideshow here-- >  LINK

Thursday, March 22, 2012

FIRST IMAGES OF THE DEVON TREAD 2 WATCH - Available at authorized dealer Watchismo

DEVON ANNOUNCES IMAGES OF THE EAGERLY ANTICIPATED FOLLOW-UP TO ITS GROUNDBREAKING TREAD 1, THE DEVON TREAD 2 WATCH
 DEVON TREAD 2A WATCH (STEEL/BLACK)

American timepiece manufacturer DEVON has earned a reputation for turning out dazzling designs that challenge industry conventions and create buzz all around the world.  Their debut watch, the Tread 1 recently made its way to the finals of the highly respected GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENEVE in the category of Best Design and Concept Watch - a feat never before achieved by an American watch brand.  Since then people the world over have been wondering what might be coming next from this independent and bold newcomer, and now their wait is over.  Today at the Baselworld Exposition, the world's largest watch show, DEVON has unveiled its follow-up timepiece, the Tread 2.
DEVON TREAD 2B WATCH (BLACK/STEEL)

"Our products are designed, developed, engineered and manufactured in Southern California with American aerospace engineers and suppliers who are not constrained by tradition or status-quo but are accustomed to pushing the boundaries of what's been done before," said Scott Devon, the company's founder.

Tread 2 continues to use of the Tread 1's patented movement technology employing an innovative system of fiberglass-reinforced nylon Time Belts.  The belts are only 2/1000th's of an inch thick and are a technology appropriated directly out of the cockpits of airliners like the Boeing 747 where they indicated vital measurements such as air speed and fluid levels.  the belts are mounted on a central chassis and driven by two extremely compact microstep motors.  These motors and all other watch functions are controlled by a microcontroller, essentially an extremely compact computer inside the heart of the watch.  Loaded with DEVON's proprietary software, this computer manages all of the timepiece's functions and ensure precision time-keeping, the preliminary testing of which indicates an unusually accurate tolerance of only one half-second per day.

DEVON TREAD 2C (ALL BLACK)

To make the watch practical DEVON has designed the movement to be what it calls a "hybrid" - combining a highly mechanical masterpiece of moving parts with a system that stores extra energy in a lithium-polymer battery pack rather than a mainspring.  This innovation allow the Tread 2 to be offered at a relatively affordable starting price of around $10k while also offering a very generous power reserve estimated at up to fourteen days no  single charge.  As with the Tread 1, when a recharge is necessary, simply placing the watch onto its charging cradle will wirelessly charge the battery through the use of electromagnetic induction in only a few hours.

Other innovations seen on the Tread 2 include a one-of-a-kind clamp system used to secure the bezel to the case, the crown's unmistakably unique articulating arm and jeweled bearings in the movement's pulley system that ensure free and easy movement with no lubrication necessary.


Specifications
•       42mm x 38mm x 14.5mm 316L Stainless Steel case
•       1mm thick sapphire crystal
•       Water resistant to 10M
•       Black Rubber Strap
•       .002” thick glass reinforced, Nylon Time Belts©
•       Lithium polymer rechargeable battery lasts up to 2 weeks
•       Inductive wireless charging system

About Devon Works, LLC
Led by founder Scott Devon and headquartered in Los Angeles, California, Devon Works, LLC is a design lab dedicated to creating innovative luxury products that exemplify the American spirit. Devon Works began with the design of the exclusive Devon GTX supercar and continued with the revolutionary Tread 1 timepiece.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

The Devon Works Tread 2, As Explained By Chief Engineer Jeff Stephenson

The follow-up to the successful Tread One, the new Tread Two was just introduced at Baselworld 2012. Here is a video of the incredible machine as explained by Devon Works chief engineer Jeff Stephenson.  -video and copy thanks to HODINKEE

California company Devon Works is following up on their popular Devon Tread 1 watch with a second generation, the Tread 2, this year at Baselworld.  Both issues have been addressed with the Tread 2 without compromising any of the original charm. While in Basel last week, we sat down with Devon engineer Jeff Stephenson for an explanation of some of the new features.

The first thing you'll notice about the Tread 2 are its far more manageable dimensions. Further helping in the practicality department is the new crown system which uses an articulating arm to access many of the watches features. The arm adds a nice visual touch to the new case design as well, which is constructed of multiple pieces varying in texture. Another big change is the removal of the seconds belt. However, this does remove the most animated element of the watch; but if you're missing that bit you can put the minutes belt into a seconds mode.

The Tread 2 also has the capacity to enter "chronograph" mode, which zeros the minute belt and sets the hour at 12. From there you can time events as you would any chronograph. Watch above as Jeff explains.

It's important to note here that the Tread 2 is not yet in final form. Some of the functions are still being hammered out, as are a variety of possible color combinations. Look for a final Tread 2 to hit the market later this year, and we're told pricing will be around $10,000 - $7,000 less than the Tread 1.

Preorder your Devon Tread 2 Watch here: Devon Works Tread 2









photos of Tread 2 prototypes courtesy of ablogtoread.com

Hands on with the Tread 2 via ablogtoread.com

The DEVON Tread 1 was nominated for the GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE in 2010 for Best Design and Concept Watch among a field of very storied and esteemed brands, the first time an American watch company had ever been included in the competition.  Now DEVON is building upon the success of the Tread 1 with another groundbreaking design called Tread 2.  The Tread 2 will deliver DEVON’s patent-pending Time Belt technology in a package that’s more sophisticated than the avante-garde Tread 1.
“As with the Tread 1, the DEVON Tread 2 will continue to be developed within the United States Aerospace industry's network of suppliers and engineers.  We’ve become known for pushing the envelope of acceptability, and The Tread 2 incorporates many innovative features that have never before been seen in the world of haute horlogerie,” said Scott Devon, the company’s founder. 
A few of the most obvious innovations are a one-of-a-kind clamp system that is used to secure the bezel to the case, the four distinctive lugs which help to define the shape of the watch as well as the crown’s unmistakably unique articulating arm.   All of these features give the Tread 2 a unique depth of character.
The movement, similar to the Tread 1, relies heavily on aerospace technology.  For instance, the glass-reinforced Nylon Time Belts used to display the current time were adapted directly from aircraft instrumentation.  The belt assemblies remain mounted on a central chassis, which allows for the perfect clearance of the moving parts while creating the illusion that the parts are floating within the case.  Two extremely compact micro-step motors drive the movement of the hour and minute belts with efficiency, exacting power, and steadfast accuracy.  The lubricant-free pulley system moves freely thanks to the integration of jeweled bearings.
A temperature-compensating and calibrated quartz crystal provides an extremely accurate time-keeping signal to the onboard microprocessor that controls the movement’s two micro-step motors.  Power for this “Visual Symphony” is provided by a rechargeable lithium-polymer battery.  When a recharge is necessary, simply placing the watch onto its charging cradle will wirelessly charge the battery through the use of electromagnetic induction.

DEVON will be debuting the watch at March’s Baselworld Watch and Jewelry Show in private showings to retailers and press.  Production will begin shortly thereafter and deliveries are scheduled to commence in June, 2012.  

Preorder your Devon Tread 2 Watch here; Devon Works Tread 2

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Sneak Peek to Baselworld 2012 - HYT H1 - the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering.

What are we getting excited to see at the 2012 Baselworld Watch Fair in Switzerland?  Topping our growing list is the HYT H1 Hydro-Mechanical watch from Vincent Perriard & co. (former CEO of Concord - and his obvious product predecessor, the C1). Prices are rumored to begin at $45,000 (for Titanium casing) which is considerably more attainable than other concept watches of this ilk.

Pistons in the movement move the bellows.  As one expands the other one compresses which moves the green Fluorescein liquid.  Fluorescein even has applications in forensics to detect latent blood stains but this is likely a first and only use in horology!

We'll be showcasing live shots in early March 2012, stay tuned to The Watchismo Times!

Technical specs from HYT:

  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound, exclusive HYT calibre, 28,800 vph, 4 Hz, 35 jewels, bridges hand-chamfered and adorned with Côtes de Genève, rhodiumed bellows, 65-hour power reserve
  • Functions: Retrograde fluid hours, minutes, seconds
  • Case: Titanium; diameter: 48.8 mm, thickness: 17.9 mm brushed, bead-blasted and satin-brushed finish, rubber-clad screw-lock crown, titanium crown guard, screw-locked added lugs, metal dome at 06:00
  • Crystal: Cambered sapphire crystal with glareproofed interior, screw-down sapphire back 
  • Dial: Unstructured, silver-toned opaline, fluid hours, luminescent hands and hour-markers regulator at 12:00, small seconds wheel at 09:30, power-reserve indicator at 02:30 
  • Strap: Hand-sewn leather-lined canvas, pin buckle
  • Other versions: Black DLC-coated titanium case, 5N 18K red gold case

Black DLC-coated titanium case

18k red gold case

Titanium case

The caseback view of the movement



 Video/animation of the H1

For more information, visit HYT Watches

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Stepan Sarpaneva Watches to introduce 'Northern Stars' at 2011 Baselworld

Finnish Watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva keeps outdoing himself! Check out the first glimpses of the 'Northern Stars' collection, a limited (only 10!) edition of watches including his (now iconic) trademark dimensional moonphase display. I asked Stepan to describe this bold new concept, "It is about the Northern Stars, what I see during the coldest moments of the (Finnish) winter when looking at the sky."

Helsinki in Winter (shot from Sarpaneva watchmaking shop)


A few of the very first models produced

As always, featuring truly unique winding masses

Diamond coated blue steel with transparent moons and stars in which to see the hints of the movement.


Diamond Coated Black Steel Northern Star


For more information about purchasing a Sarpaneva Northern Star watch, visit the Sarpaneva website www.sarpanevawatches.com - or if you are attending Baselworld like us, be sure to stop by Stepan's booth (
Booth C01 in Hall 5.1 together with Kari Voutilainen, Grönefeld, Romain Gauthier, Kees Engelbart, Urban Jurgensen) and see these Moon-men in person before anyone else in the world!

And on another note, check out this just released short film for the Sarpaneva 'Moonshine' collection! Very cool...



Monday, May 3, 2010

The Horological Machine No 3 FROG from MB&F - Maximilian Büsser & Friends

Seeing a sneak peek of this prototype at Baselworld had my eyes pop out quite similarly to the Frog's bulbous displays. Originally based upon the HM3 Sidewinder & Starcruiser released last year, this alternative version features innovative domes for hours and minutes.

MB&F is the only "haute" brand I know that doesn't take themselves too seriously. They build fascinating machines blending humor and style. Sure it's an exclusive club to belong to but the inspiration is free.

MB&F will only craft 32 Frog movements this year: a limited edition of 12 pieces in black titanium (with green gold rotor) and 20 pieces of a non-limited titanium version (with blue gold rotor).

Haute horlogerie is (usually) a very restrained and serious business; however one of Maximilian Büsser main goals in creating MB&F was to bring a child's sense of awe and sense of playfulness into high-end watchmaking. There is no doubting that with the HM3 Frog, MB&F have certainly achieved that aim . . . and more! The protruding eyes of the (amphibian) frog enable it to see in many directions without having to turn its head. The bulbous domes of the HM3 Frog have the opposite, but no less important, feature of enabling the time to be easily seen from many angles without having to turn the wrist. The Frog differs substantially from HM3 in that it is the aluminum domes that rotate under the sapphire crystals in the Frog, whereas it is the hour and minute hands that rotate around their respective stationary cones on HM3.

Rotating domes of this size and shape posed MB&F with a number of technical challenges. The hour and minute domes are machined from solid aluminium - chosen for its optimal strength to weight ratio. The domes weigh in at just over 0.5g. They are milled first from the outside and then the inside to arrive at a paper-thin wall thickness of just 0.28 mm, which reduces their energy requirements to an absolute minimum.

Even the fabrication of the semi-spherical sapphire crystal domes was incredibly demanding and only recently even possible at all. This is due to the fact that any slight imperfection in the sapphire might introduce a disconcerting magnification effect. The sapphire has to be shaped and polished to be perfectly uniform.

The Frog's unusual method of indicating time necessitated the development of a new gear train for the HM3 engine. This was because the aluminum hour dome of the Frog rotates in 12 hours compared to the 24 hour revolution of the HM3 hour hand. And as the oversized date wheel is driven from the hours, the gearing driving the date had to be reworked as well.

The Frog may portray the time in a playful manner, but there is nothing but serious and meticulous attention to detail and care regarding the fine hand-finishing of the high-tuned engine purring within its lightweight high-tech titanium case. A close inspection of the case is rewarded with carefully thought out detailing including a figure 8 engraved around the domes that mirrors the form of the display back(revealing dual ceramic bearings); distinctive clover-head white gold screws; and an engraved arrow discreetly indicating the easy to read over-sized date.

If the viewer's gaze manages to break away from the obiculate indications, it is likely to be arrested by the brightly-coloured 22K gold battle-axe winding rotor or the intricacies of the thoroughbred movement beneath.
The HM3 Frog is available in Grade 5 titanium with blued rotor or a limited edition of 12 featuring mark-resistant black-coated titanium with green rotor.

HM3 Frog – Technical Specifications
Horological Machine No3 Frog


Movement:
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;
Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
22K blued rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes.
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 304

Functions:
Hour and day/night indicator on one dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on second dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Date around the movement

Case:
Grade 5 titanium/blue 22K gold rotor; limited edition of 12 black titanium/green 22K gold (black treated with mark-resistant silicon oxide)
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mm
Number of case components: 53

Sapphire crystals:
Domes and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Domes for indications: in aluminium, 0.58g

Dials:
Rotating aluminium domes, stationary hands

Strap & Buckle:
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K white gold & titanium custom designed deployment buckle


Visit MB&F Website

All MB&F Stories


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Monday, March 29, 2010

The Opus 10 by Jean-François Mojon for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces

The Opus series has lost some of its "oomph" with the lackluster #10. More avant guard than garde. Sadly leaving people like me vanting more. Either way, thanks to Ian Skellern of Underthedial for his images and video of the latest Harry Winston Rare Timepieces Opus X.




"This simplified model of the Opus 10 mechanism only demonstrates the minutes and GMT functions. It does not include the complexity of the hours and seconds".

The Shape of Time

Inspired by planetary movements and the space-time continuum, Opus X captures the shape and dimensionality of time through the synchronous rotation of circular motions. Replacing a traditional fixed dial and watch hands, time is displayed as system of rotating indicators mounted on a revolving frame. Presenting a new technical challenge, as the frame completes a full rotation, the dials of each indicator turn in the opposite direction, ensuring orientation remains constant in any position.

Recalling the celestial mechanics of the solar system, the hand-wound mechanical movement functions as a planetary gear train, consisting of solar wheel, satellite wheels, and frame. The indicators for hours, minutes, seconds, and secondary timezone, are set on the individual satellite wheels, which orbit around the central, solar wheel. Each indicator is set at a slight incline, allowing the dials to follow the curvature of the case, while ensuring fluidity in rotation. The frame is driven separately to complete a full rotation in 24-hours.

Creating coherency throughout the design, the 72-hour power reserve operates as special planetary gear train, in which the diameter of the satellite wheel equals the radius of the crown wheel resulting in a linear indication. Balance regulation and chamfered bridges enhance the stability and functionality of the power reserve. A transparent backing shows the geometric precision and beautiful finishing of the movement.

Technical Specifications

Name: Opus X
Reference: 500/MMJFMWL.K
Movement: Mechanical movement with manual winding
Functions: Display of time by modules for hours, minutes and seconds mounted on a platform
Continuous movement of the platform rotates in twenty-four hours
Twenty-four hour second time zone indicated in the periphery
Linear power reserve indicator on the case back
Case: 46 mm white gold
Strap: Black alligator
Buckle: White gold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Water resistance: 30 meters
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Collection: Opus

For more photos-->LINK


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