Sunday

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches

Two new models from Pierre Kunz. The "Vertigo" with linear retrograde hour indicator on left, rising and falling with each 12 hour cycle and compartmentalized minutes and seconds in the displays on the right.


Vertigo movement

Secondly, the Pierre Kunz "Spirit Diver" with a depth gauge (up to 80 meters) inside a sapphire tube fixed to the left side of the case and rotating disc for seconds.


via Selectism

Related Stories on The Watchismo Times;

All Diver Watch Posts
All Watches with Retrograde Functions

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |

Saturday

Bell & Ross Instrument BR 01 Airborne - The Talisman Watch


Instrument BR01 Airborne

The Talisman watch


"The BR 01 Airborne is an anthem to the extraordinary saga of military paratroopers. This new watch is a tribute to those brave young men who fought in one of the toughest army corps, particularly the US Airborne divisions.


The Airborne divisions were born during the Second World War. They were the first to be exposed to danger and the first ones to face death. Their most famous motto was “Death from Above” symbolised by a skull that was a reminder to them of both their power and vulnerability.

Since then, the symbol has spread to other military regiments. It is often embossed on uniforms patches or on fighter planes. The skull is a constant reminder of the omnipresence of death on each military mission."


By wearing the skull, the soldiers are attempting
to both defy death and intimidate the enemy


"The BR 01 Airborne reinvents the notion of the talisman, and personifies the very spirit of these outstanding men. It is a genuine tribute to the noblest of military values as well as to the bravery of soldiers who face death on a daily basis to defend their country."

  • Movement: Automatic mechanical ETA 2892.
  • Functions: Hours, minutes.
  • Case: 46mm diameter. 316L glass bead blasted steel with black finishing type carbon powder coating.
  • Dial: black. Photoluminescent hands and skull for optimum night readability.
  • Glass: anti-reflection sapphire crystal.
  • Water-resistance: 100 meters.
  • Bracelet: rubber, leather or heavy-duty synthetic fabric

via TheWatchQuote

All Bell & Ross Posts at The Watchismo Times


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau Collaboration


Omega announces the 2009 Professional Ploprof Diver developed in conjunction with famed diver Jacques Cousteau.

Technical Specifications:
  • Movement: Co-Axial Caliber 8500
  • Case: Stainless Steel, Water resistant to 1200 meters
  • Sapphire bezel and crystal
  • Bi-directional rotating bezel with security push-button lock for the bezel
  • Screwed-in and protected crown at 9
  • Special Seamaster medallion on the case-back with grooved wave-pattern
  • Bracelet: New Omega mesh SHARK-PROOF bracelet or rubber strap (black or orange) that can be adjusted for wearing over the diving suit (can be up to 7mm thick thanks to a double extension system), a new sliding clasp, capable of fine adjustments

The watch has a MSRP of CHF 8,000 on the mesh or roughly $7,700.


via Watch Happening

Below, a watch collector friend provided a wrist shot of his enormous vintage 1970s Ploprof...



The solid caseback (movement was accessed from the front)

Some history on the Ploprof from Deskdivers;


Developed in conjunction with Comex and the legendary Jacques Cousteau, Omega conceived and developed what was probably the first waterproof watch designed and built solely for the diving professional.The watch took 4 years to come to the market after extensive testing and arrived in 1970. It was nicknamed PloProf by the French speaking development team and derives from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel (Professional Diver).Comex used early models of the PloProf and continued their research into living underwater for prolonged periods. One Issue that still concerned Comex was helium infiltration, which carried the danger of causing a watch crystal to pop out during decompression. There is no proof that this problem occurred with any Ploprof, and later tests by the American diving research centre Ocean Systems Inc. in Tarrytown, NY, certified that the Ploprof was ‘more watertight’ than a submarine. However, Comex wanted to be sure to combat the helium infiltration issue, rather than trust improved watch-case sealing. They chose to continue their research work with Rolex and Doxa to test their new Helium Expulsion Valve (HEV) designs. HEVs were incorporated in the Rolex SeaDweller which Comex used reliably for many, many years."

Read more about the vintage history here-->DesktopDivers

Related Posts at The Watchismo Times;


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



Ulysse Nardin Chairman Hybrid Mechanical Mobile Phone


"Yeah, we'd seen those fine mechanical workings from the back, but Ulysse Nardin has just taken the wraps of its entire Chairman handset, which they bill as a "hybrid smart phone" -- and actually seem to mean it. Ulysse Nardin surprisingly hasn't skimped on specs here, with a 2.8-inch multitouch screen, finger print reader for phone unlock, 5 megapixel camera, WiFi and the inclusion of an email app and a browser. There's also that fancy kinetic rotor system for passive charging of the phone, but no word on how much battery life that will actually get you. Ulysse Nardin is currently showing off the phone in Rose Gold, Rose Gold & Blue, Rose Gold & Steel, Stealth Black and Steel & Blue trims, so there should be plenty of options to set you apart from your other billionaire friends. The device is currently on display at BASELWORLD; no word on price, but if you have to ask..."

via Engadget




| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |




Friday

Laserdial

"This is the XXI Century Sundial, created by Alessandro using an Arduino microcontroller, a wall, and a laser.
This is a simple project of a sundial wherein the pinion is replaced by a line LASER I took from a LASER level. The LASER is mounted on a RC servo which in turn is driven by a micro controller. The micro controller keeps the time and turns the RC servo accordingly. ... Shorting pins 1-2 adds some life to the sundial and makes it count just the seconds. Hypnotic initially, then pointless.

Originally put together using an Atmel controller, it is "very basic in design it does exactly what I wanted," Alessandro writes."





XXI century sundail -- Now for Arduino also ! [5volt via Make]

via BoingBoing



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



Real Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Tourbillon



Finally, no more slick CAD teasers, the real deal, Concord's C1 Quantum Gravity live in Basel.

Thanks to Watchluxus


Video Link of the new tourbillon bi-axial from BNB Concept for the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity timepiece is placed and alive.




Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism

Christophe Claret's Dual Tow watch introduced today at Baselworld
Two conveyor belts rotate displaying the time. (there seems to be a theme this year!)

From the press release (via Horomundi):

2009 is a jubilee year in the history of Christophe Claret SA, a milestone that its owner wished to symbolize by releasing an exclusive timepiece produced under the company brand name and distributed by the finest retailers worldwide.

The DualTow is a faithful reflection of the watchmaking philosophy inherent to Christophe Claret. Housing several inventions including one patented innovation, this single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon expresses a combination of technical excellence and sophisticated aesthetics.

It also embodies the merging of the wide variety of skills united within the company, since almost all operations involved in making it – from movement development to the machining of the sapphire dial-bridge – have been performed in-house.

Representing a horological embodiment of power and energy, the DualTow is an ultra-refined machine for measuring time. With its original “belt” display of the hours and minutes, the model features an ultra-technical and classically elegant appearance.

Technically speaking, the mechanical hand-wound CC20A movement boasts an impressive number of innovations and stylistic refinement.

One particularly striking example is a gong that sounds each time the chronograph pusher is activated, in a playful allusion to the expertise of the Manufacture in the field of striking watches.




DUALTOW Specs:

SINGLE-PUSHER PLANETARY-GEAR CHRONOGRAPH WITH STRIKING MECHANISM MOVEMENT:

Number of parts: 582

Number of jewels: 73

Power Reserve: Over 50 hours

Barrels: Twin barrels placed in parallel

Tourbillon: - Swiss lever escapement
- Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Tourbillon rotation frequency : 1 revolution/minute

Functions: - Hour and minute display on belts
- Single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph
- Mechanical striking mechanism sounding each change of function (start, stop and reset)
- 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters
- Operating mode indicator
- Mechanical hand-wound movement
- Power-Reserve display

EXTERIOR:

Case: - Watch glasses specially designed and manufactured to ensure an ergonomic fit
- Rectangular, curving; fitted with exclusive mobile lugs enabling a perfect fit on the wrist
- Dimensions : 42.75 x 48.20 mm (not counting the lugs)
- Water Resistant: 3 ATM or 30 meters

Display belts: In rubber with transferred hour and minute numerals

Flange: Flange with chronograph seconds markers cut from five different stones

Dynamometric crown and pusher: Rubber-molded

Dial: Sapphire crystal serving as a bridge for the chronograph counters and featuring transferred chronograph hour and minute counters, chronograph operating mode, Christophe Claret brand name and ‘Swiss Made’ indication

Buckle: Triple-blade folding clasp with decorative covers and an innovative system enabling comfort-enhancing 10 mm wrist extension

Series: Limited edition of 68 timepieces; each unique


Christophe Claret website

Related Posts;
All Christophe Claret Stories
Watches with Alternative Displays
Opus 9 Diamond Chain Display
Baselworld Releases
Watches over $100,000


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



Thursday

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces

2009 Harry Winston Opus 9



In Opus 9, diamonds are not merely a decorative element, but the functional element of time telling. Teamed up for the 9th Opi is master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederecht and haute designer Eric Giroud.

Replacing the traditional watch hands and cyclical dial, time is displayed by two parallel diamond chains, for hours and minutes.

Sleek and scintillating, each chain is adorned with 33 baguette-cut diamonds, Harry Winston’s signature shape.

Vivid mandarin garnets are strategically positioned to indicate the hours and minutes.

Meticulously calibrated, each stone is perfectly set into the links, to ensure movement, while maintaining their brilliance. The chains are designed to maximize mobility while minimizing friction.

Recalling Harry Winston’s iconic, invisible settings, the gemstones appear as floating lines of light, seamless unfolding across the dial.

Limited edition of 100 pieces

Harry Winston presentation today at Baselworld
Photography and report by Ian Skellern for Horomundi


History of the Opus Series 1-8

First presentation of the dial

Presentation of the sketches and renderings

The exposed diamond time chain

Opus 9 on the wrist

First public viewing for the watch


The Opus 9 Box

Specifications:
  • Movement: Automatic self-winding using a chain system.
  • Functions: Linear display of hours and minutes.
  • Power Reserve: 72 Hours
  • Case: White Gold
  • Dimensions: 56mm x 48mm x 20mm
  • Dial: Baguette diamond chain indicating the hours on left, the minutes on the right. The indicator is a Garnet.
  • Water Resistance: 30 meters (3ATM)
  • Carat Weight: 66 baguette diamonds, total carats: 2.148 cts. 6 Garnet, total carats: 0.222 cts.
Related Stories:

OPUS 8
OPUS 7
OPUS 6
OPUS 5


Harry Winston Website

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon Technique

Double Tourbillon Technique
  • Mechanical hand-wound movement,
  • Calibre GF 02s Double Tourbillon 30°,
  • Hours and minutes display,
  • Outer Tourbillon 4-minute rotation indicator,
  • Inner Tourbillon 60 Second rotation indicator, power-reserve indicator.
Photo - Ian Skellern via Horomundi



Invention Piece 3
  • Mechanical hand-wound movement,
  • Calibre GF 01n
  • Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné,
  • Hours and minutes display,
  • Seconds display and power-reserve indicator.
Photo credit - Watchprosite


Greubel Forsey Website

via Horomundi (photos courtesy of Ian Skellern)

Related Stories at The Watchismo Times:
The Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1
All Greubel Forsey Posts on The Watchismo Times
All Independent Watchmaker Posts

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Wednesday

CLOCK WISE - Ulysse Nardin Planet Earth Desk Clock

Limited Edition of 99 Pieces

Ulysse Nardin introduces a desk clock with a spherical presentation of Earth in the Universe as conceived by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin.


It shows at all times the exact position of Sun, Moon and fixed stars in relation to any location on Planet Earth.


A transparent spherical crystal globe outlining the continents and oceans represents Earth. This outer spherical globe does not move. The inner sphere representing a model of the Universe as seen from Earth, rotates at the speed of the sidereal day in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. The inner sphere displays the signs of zodiac, months and major fixed stars. Animated from the center a large Sun hand rotates once in 24 hours indicating which part of the Earth is illuminated by the Sun.


The Moon hand rotates once in 24 hours, 52 minutes and 42 seconds and indicates in which part of Planet Earth the Moon is visible.


A blue Dragon hand rotates in 18,613 years one time faster than the inner glass sphere with the fixed stars and sign of zodiac display. In conjunction with the Sun and the Moon hand the Dragon hand displays all eclipses of Sun and Moon.

The Planet Earth’s key-wind mechanism has a power reserve of 30 days. Should the clock need to be re-wound from stop, a year indicator with a push button (located at the bottom of the inner sphere) facilitates easy resetting of the astronomical indications.


A clock on the front panel of the mahogany case indicates hours and minutes.


Planet Earth is an extraordinary time machine and represents another in-house development, conceived and produced in the Manufacture Ulysse Nardin.


via Timezone

Related Stories;
All Clock Posts at The Watchismo Times
Hatching Egg Vacheron Constantin Astronomical Clock
All Astronomic Watch & Clock Posts
Richard Mille Planetarium Telurium



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Tuesday

CLOCK WISE - Matthias Naeschke NT2 Erwin Sattler Tempus Mobile Clocks


The marine timepiece, "Tempus Mobile" created by Erwin Sattler of Munich Germany will be introduced this week at Baselworld.

Indication of hours, minutes, seconds, remaining power, second time zone, separate 24 hour dial with world time indication.

Suspended on Gimballs, with indication of the ships inclination on degrees.

Structure in steel and base on granite.

Erwin Sattler website



The design philosophy for the Matthias Naeschke NT 2 BUSINESS-CLOCK was to create a timepiece that will provide for business people (for the private individual) to comprehend different time-zones around the world.

For this purpose Matthias & Sebastian Naeschke considered all the necessary functions that help facilitate international communications. The NT 2 BUSINESS-CLOCK unites a perpetual calendar, an indication of the calendar-week and world time-zones. Another special feature of the NT 2 is an alternative 24hr dial, mounted on the rear of the movement. The hour hand of this dial is mounted with an adjustment wheel with latch so it can be changed to indicate any time-zone directly.
The whole clock including its heavy base made of granite sits on a huge turntable. So it can be turned easily from one face to the other. The movement power reserve is 9 weeks. The movement is all gilded and highly polished as always at Naeschke.

Friday

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve


New Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Bi-Axial Tourbillon

A liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles
fills a tube to assist in the reading of the power reserve

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon, vertical power reserve.

Designed and developed by C Lab Series, a special unit specialising in extreme watchmaking, the C1 QuantumGravity follows from last year's C1 Tourbillon Gravity.

Devised in Fall 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period; BNB Concept created the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

C1 Movement by BNB Concept

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon mechanism. A vertical power reserve. Individualist seconds. A stripped-down dial and spectacular volumes: the latest specimen from the C Lab Series defies all theories. Even better, it creates its own rules: emptiness is its core material, engineering its constancy; chemistry a dare and transparency a must.

Designed and developed by the C Lab Series, the C1 QuantumGravity symbolizes unrestricted and unconstrained time, where only impulse and intuition prevail. A special unit dedicated to extreme watchmaking, the C Lab Series has a mission: to push the boundaries of mechanical watch making by introducing it to new modes of expression. Last year, the C1 Tourbillon Gravity timepiece inaugurated a new watchmaking era, where time liberates itself without reserve.

In 2009, the C Lab Series is expanding this watchmaking metamorphosis to embrace new horizons. Initially devised in the fall of 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period, nurtured by the will and tireless energy of a team that works on instinct alone. BNB Concept was entrusted with the creation of the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

The result: a new species of watch that lives time as if it were an experiment and space, a source of stimulation. The creation of the C1 QuantumGravity constitutes a provocative act in itself, while its construction is an exploration carried out at the brink of excess and defiance.

A perpendicular power reserve

First equation: Power reserve = verticality + fluidity

A cylindrical piston. A vertical back-and-forth movement. Liquid. These were the three essential elements combined by the C Lab Series to create this astounding equation involving mechanics and chemistry.

Traditional design and display codes have been demolished to make way for a mobile glass column, located between 12 and 1 o’clock, which serves as the power reserve with a vertical indicator. On the chemistry side of things, a liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles fills a tube to assist in the reading. Meanwhile, on the mechanical side, this energy gauge operates perpendicularly to the caliber, rising up and down from its base to signal the remaining energy of the movement in relation to its available three-day power reserve. Its graduated outline corresponds to level indicators, which are secured to the inner surface of the watch.

A stayed bi-axial tourbillon

Second equation: Tourbillon = suspension + axes2

Cables. A bi-axial movement. A lateral position. This collection of challenges had to be taken on to erect a spectacular tourbillon carriage.

Exported to the timepiece’s Western border and literally suspended, it rotates in a multi-dimensional manner on two axes – the main one being vertical. Its baffling structure has adopted the rigid and light elevation of cable-stayed bridges: one arm, extended from cables measuring just 2/10th of a mm-wide and fastened to the plate, maintains the carriage vertically and thus reinforces the impression of an independent arrangement. The suspension mechanism is supported by an elastomeric self-tensing system, which enables the cable/arm hinge to be precisely adjusted and the dilatation effects, compensated.

Levitating mechanics

Third equation: Time = space

48.5 mm in diameter and 22 mm in depth: the appearance of a Titan, whose proportions reach a staggering 57.5 mm in breadth. Yet, the C1 QuantumGravity remains easily wearable thanks to its lugless design which ensures a perfect fit on the wrist. The use of Titanium for the case and Aluminum for the majority of movement components bestows a lightness on this timepiece that is as astounding as its size.

The build of this watch composed of 511 parts is also offset by an anatomy that privileges space and transparency: the case, whose machining required 400 hours of fine adjustment, can be reduced to a structure that is literally enveloped by 5 sapphire crystals. The mechanism is visible from all angles.

Although the case and movement share a genetic bond as they were made for each other, they are flanked by other elements that seem to operate self-sufficiently: to the West, a glass excrescence house the tourbillon carriage while to the East, two symmetrical casings house the winding mechanism and the seconds, at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively.

Concealed entirely, the imposing time-setting key can be ejected from its armor by simply pressing on the push button. As for the seconds, they evade the dial to nestle on the side of the case. They are engraved in luminescent orange against a black aluminum roll and can be seen through a window whose cut echoes the push button of the crown. A lateral sapphire crystal reveals the rotating orange blades of the seconds wheel.

The dial has also been contaminated by this urge for maximum openness. Although it strives to display the flight of hours and minutes, its focus is on empty spaces. The depth of its field of vision is dizzying, the feeling of levitation exhilarating. Deconstruction, a concept so dear to Concord, has been magnified: the C1 QuantumGravity apprehends time as a perspective, using emptiness as a material on which time features are grafted.

Under the impressive sapphire crystal, the panorama, amplified to its utmost, outlines time that has almost been dematerialized. And despite the exuding madness, legibility has remained at the core of its construction. Just like a suspended glass saucer, the off-centered hour-circle between 3 and 4 o’clock dresses a part of the cavity at the bottom of which the movement is supported. A spider-like structure acts as a scaffold under the transparent disc punctuated by the luminescent orange markers. The 6.5 mm high hand-fitting is a technical prowess in itself and adds to the feeling of dizziness.

Wedged at the bottom of the abyss, the mechanical manually wound movement choreographs time with precision. An officer-style case-back which appears as an air-lock at every opportunity reveals the geometric circuit, the right-angled skeletonized bridges, the gear-trains that transmit energy to the tourbillon carriage and the cable adjustment. The finishing touches highlight an industrial design that is both methodical and futuristic: a black aluminum plate against anthracite aluminum bridges, rubies against polished steel screws… They embody the spirit of a watch made with high-tech materials, glass, emptiness and colored luminescent materials.

The C1 QuantumGravity defends time that is inexorably linked to space. Prophetic, its construction created in record time propels Concord into a parallel world where intuition is a favored ally and its design and mechanics a harbinger for the future of watchmaking. An addiction to breaking established codes and extrapolating underlies Concord’s creative mettle. C1 QuantumGravity is its ultimate creation.

Go to www.c1-quantum.ch to find out about how this exceptional timepiece, in a limited edition of 10, was created.

Technical Features:

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber Concord C104
21,600 vibrations per hour
3-day power reserve
42 Jewels

Functions
Hours, minutes
Roll of seconds external to the case
Vertical power-reserve indicator
Bi-axial tourbillon

Case
Titanium case with white gold elements
Dimensions: 48.5 mm in diameter – 22 mm in depth
5 sapphire crystals
See through officer-style hinged case back

Dial
Aerial skeletonized dial

Strap
Black vulcanized rubber fixed to the case with 4 screws


For More information;

Link: C1 Concord Main Site


Related Posts;
Independent Watch Brands
Alternative Displays


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |

Wednesday

Vintage Watching - Gettin To The Hajj On Time - 1970s Vintage Muslim Mecca Compass Watches

Even though the Islamic pilgrims are walking counterclockwise around the Hajj in Mecca, they can be on time with these very rare vintage Muslim World Time watches of the early seventies. Built with a compass and pointer for Mecca just above the dial and below the crystal, they are powered by Swiss mechanical automatic movements.

See the uncovered stash of this obscure watch collection here-->Muslim Mecca Watches


Brushed Steel Case

Black Steel Mecca Watch


Product Pages-->LINK



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |